Baby Sri Lankan Star Tortoise (big babies 5-6 months old)

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Pictured is the exact babies we have available, photo taken 12-20-16. Tons of color about to explode on these! *Tortoise on left has sold.
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  1. Great tortoise!

    Posted by Patrick in New Jersey on 21st Nov 2012

    I bought a sri lankan star from these guys and it was unbelievable.the best one I have ever seen. Shipping was top notch the temp in shipping box was high 80. Wichita is unheard of with late fall shipping.I got a Hermann's from turtlesale and it was dead in a week temp in his shipping bow was 35 degrees.I am going to order again from theses guys a baby pancake cant wait best group of breederd around I even got tour of vacility on line u never get that from other places.order from these guys and stay away fro. Turtlessale trust me not even a heatpack in box or air holes In container tort was in.his skin was peeling off him and his beak on the right side of his mouth was breaking off so he couldn't eat.never so mad he wainted me to lay for return. Shipping pluss it didn't ever comrfrom turtlesale dome other compailny sent it.I got my star for 550$ they sell for 2500 st turtlesale what a rips off with these guys. you wont be sorry they are a couple who take care off there chelonianso with care like there kids and the don't sell water turtles Wichita I font like the two to mix.

  2. Beautiful and so cute!!!

    Posted by Katrina S. on 31st Dec 2011

    I received my baby Sri Lankan Star a couple days ago. She began eating within 15-20 mins of getting into her new home/habitat. I loved being able to pick out which tortoise I wanted on the website. Tyler was very helpful with answering my questions and keeping me informed on the shipping process. My Sri Lankan Star is a little shy still but is warming up to me a little more each day.

Description

Common Name: Sri Lankan Star Tortoise
Scientific Name: Geochelone Elegans
Current Size: 2.5"+/-
Average Adult Size: 8-12" (females larger)
Area of Origin: Island of Sri Lanka. Other variations exist in India and Pakistan. 

Description: Black shell color with yellow lines radiating out of the scutes. These pretty species are a high domed tortoise, with males normally quite a bit smaller than the taller, rounder, wide females. Skin color is yellow. Some amount of pyramiding (where the centers of the scutes on the shell are raised, making the tortoises look bumpy) is seen in some wild star tortoises - likely the ones from lower humidity areas. Sri Lankan star tortoises average slightly larger than standard Indian stars, and show more yellow radiating lines on their shells.  

Habitat: Hot climates. Humidity is ok for them, but the cage and substrate should not be wet. They do not hibernate, but will go through a winter slow down period during cooler weather and shortened daylengths. As adults, they can safely handle body temperatures as low as 50 degrees at night as long as they are able to heat up into the 70's during the day. Summer highs up to 120 degrees can be tolerated as long as there is a cooler, shaded retreat the tortoise can get into. Dampness is not a problem in high temperatures (a cool mud hole on a hot day), but in cooler weather the tortoises should be kept dry.

Diet: This tortoise is naturally a grazer, and will wander about nibbling on grass the majority of its natural life. In captivity, star tortoises will graze on grasses as well as leafy weeds and clover (dandelions are a favorite). As babies, we focus more on feeding them a wide mix of leafy greens (spring mix), since they have a harder time eating the more tough grass. Vegetables can be added to the diet for variety, but fruit should generally be avoided.

Adult Behavior: Adult star tortoises are peaceful, slow moving tortoises. They are un-aggressive towards eachother in most cases, and do little damage to their environment (little or no digging or burrowing). Some individuals can be skittish if spooked, but most will eagerly come to their keepers looking for food once they are comfortable in their environments. They are not very good climbers and make little attempt to escape, so a short, basic wall will contain most of these tortoises.

Our Current Care:  During cooler weather or indoors, these tortoises are kept indoors on a cypress and/or coco coir substrate with a humid hidebox that they can get into at night. We raise them in cheap, simple plastic tubs that can be purchased at WalMart or Target, generally 3 to 4 square feet in size for babies. Temperatures in the room fluctuate between 75 at night up to 85 during the day, but we keep the hidebox heated to around 80-85 at night with a heat pad beind it, or a red bulb placed overhead (we keep babies at 80 degrees minimum for their first 6-12 months of life).

Diet consists of spring mix greens with many other leafy greens offered in rotation to that (mulberry, endive, grape leaves, hibiscus leaves, diced cactus pad and we use globe mallow leaves pretty regularly). We like to also add moistened Mazuri LS tortoise diet as well as ZooMed's Gourmet Tortoise Food a few times a week, usually mixed and mashed into the leafy greens. The addition of the commercial diets take care of most or all of the supplementation needs, or you can sprinkle the food lightly with a calcium supplement 2 or 3 times a week and a multivitamin supplement 1-2 times a week. We also throw a pinch of our herbal hay on top of whatever they are eating almost daily, which adds variety and flavor and scent to everything.

The tortoises are removed from their enclosure and soaked in a separate 1/4" deep pan of warm water daily or almost daily for 30 minutes each time. We don't generally use water dishes in the enclosures because of the risk of drowning (yes, we have lost babies to drowning when they flipped over in 1/4" of water).

Being a desert species, they should have intense lighting, and they need lights on during the day and off at night to maintain a normal day/night cycle. We use full spectrum UVB lights, which we suggest for the growth of pretty, healthy tortoises, and use a ZooMed Powersun bulb in a small part of the enclosure to give them a "hot spot" around 95-100 degrees that they can get into if they want to warm up.

We don't use the "closed chamber" method (keeping airflow very restricted to increase humidity to the point that clouds form in the enclosure). It is very risky if/when temperatures get below about 80, and mold, shell rot, and respiratory problems become a lot more common in those conditions. We keep them open top in the warm area, and enclosed, warm and humid within the hide (like they would be in the wild). They are free to choose the conditions, temperatures, and humidity levels they want within that setup.